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First Look: Thirteen Pies, Buckhead Atlanta

October 21, 2014

Atlanta Journal-Constitution

An offshoot of Fireside Pies from Texas-based Consilient restaurants, Thirteen Pies recently joined the dining mix at the luxury Buckhead Atlanta development. The name comes from the menu’s 12 featured pizzas, with the 13th pie as the “who knows what?” wild card.

The look: Though Fireside originated in Fort Worth, the look here is more Napa. Floors and walls are appointed with brick, steel and wood in various architectural forms, from the slender sidewalk patio in front to cozy nooks around the dining room. But the best seat in the house is at the pine-topped bar that surrounds the exhibition kitchen and its duo of wood-burning brick ovens.

The scene: On a recent Sunday evening, the kitchen was a hive of energy, as chefs worked the line and the ovens, and bartenders and servers kept orders moving. At the bar and around the dining room, small parties settled in for drinks and snacks or an early supper.

The food: Thirteen Pies pizzas features premium ingredients, including local meat and cheese, arranged on a distinctively thin crust that’s chewy in the middle and puffy, blistered and crispy on the cornice. On the current menu, the Iberian ($16) is topped with fennel salami, smoked provolone, soffrito, castelvetrano olives, yellow tomato and manchego. The Spotted Trotter ($16) guanciale and farm egg has gruyere, roasted onion and frisee. Beyond pizza, house-made pastas include buckwheat tagliatelle ($16) with mushroom, thyme and shallot. Find fresh ricotta crostini with tapenade ($10) and grass-fed meatballs with roasted ragu ($12) among the small plates.

The drinks: House cocktails ($8-$9) include Georgia On My Mind with rye whiskey, peach bitters and pecan syrup. Wines by the glass or bottle ($9-$53) are a mix of mostly Italian and California selections. The beer list, by the bottle, pint or pitcher ($5-$21), includes Georgia craft selections such as Jailhouse Slammer Wheat, Jekyll Cooter Brown Ale and Sweetwater Whiplash IPA.

The extras: Desserts ($8) include chocolate flourless torte and lemon mascarpone semifreddo. At lunch, look for reduced prices on pizzas and pastas, and salmon ($5), steak ($6) or chicken ($4) as additions to salads.

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